Near Saltwater River on the Tasman Peninsula, in the south-east of Tasmania, lies the Coal Mines Historic Site. It is only a 1-hour 40-minute drive from Hobart or 30 minutes from the infamous Port Arthur Historic Site, but its existence and history is much less well-known.
The Coal Mines were feared by convicts as a place of severe punishment even worse than that experienced at Port Arthur. Only the very worst-behaved convicts were unfortunate enough to be sentenced to spend time there. For a period of 15 years, from 1833 convict labour was used to mine underground coal. Today, you can still find ruins of the settlement which once held almost 600 convicts, commanding officers, and their families.
Coal Mines Historic Site (Credit: Suzanne Najman)
At the entrance to the site, we found informative displays about the colonial history and the individuals who once lived there. Then, as we walked toward the ruins, I was struck by the beauty and serenity of the location. The sandstone block and red brick ruins overlook the calm, shallow waters of Norfolk Bay. They are surrounded by green grass trimmed low by grazing wildlife and bordered by towering eucalypts.
It was not the sound of convict chains, digging or shouted commands that we heard but the pleasant calls of native birds. We did not see any other visitors and this added to the sense of remoteness. As we wandered amongst the ruins of the old barracks and stepped inside some of the remaining solitary cells, I tried to imagine life from the perspective of the convicts sentenced to serve time at the Coal Mines. The very thought of being imprisoned in a cold, stone cell and, worse still, digging for coal deep underground in the dark and unstable mine tunnels made me involuntarily shiver.
After exploring the ruins we followed a track through bushland up to the remnants of the main mine shaft. (This is also accessible by road). We then walked the tramway route downhill to the foreshore where the coal was once loaded onto boats. We completed our 1 and a half hour circuit walk to the settlement along the convict road near the shore.
If you are interested in history, enjoy the outdoors and prefer to stay away from crowds then the Coal Mines Historic Site is a definite must see. The site is open every day and entry is free.
Suzanne Najman - Travel Advisor
Tasmanian Travel & Information Centre